14.6.12

Day 69, Tuesday 22/5:

No cold water this morning! Our Faulty Towers hotel was not failing us! When we made contact with the receptionist, she insisted that a) the water was warm and failing this that we should b) have showers after breakfast. Cold showers it was. We had breakfast and swiftly moved on for another day’s Pilgrim spotting, heading towards the French border. We stopped at the small village of Hontanas. Patsy and Philip had visited here five years previously, at which time they found the village to be in a state of wrack and ruin, with only one very grotty hotel. The transformation to what it is now could not be greater. The streets were filled with pilgrims, with multiple bars and hotels open in newly renovated structures.
It shows that the Camino has really been a saviour for many of these small rural villages. We pushed on, the tally up to 158 walking pilgrims and 15 cycling - not a bad day’s effort. We crossed back into France on a particularly bad motorway, with road works that seemed to go on and on with only one lane in each direction. We departed this in preference of the ‘yellow’ roads, following the coast to our final destination at St Julien en Born. We had booked into a chambre d’hôte, which is a sort of cross between a bed and breakfast and a hotel. This one was set up in a very old house and was run by a couple in their 30’s. The rooms were quite small but comfortable nonetheless and the friendly couple helped us settle in. We had dinner at a restaurant of their recommendation, a very nice meal, the highlight of which was roast duck.

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