24.8: Narva

As I said in the last post, Narva is the third largest Estonian city, however the actual footprint of the city seems quite small. Unlike some of the other cities/towns I have visited, there seems to be very few detached dwellings. Apartment buildings dominate. The centre radiates from the border crossing. Due to Lake Peipsi, this bridge is the only border crossing in the north of the country. The crossing cuts through the city centre, with large hurricane fencing erected alongside the road leading to the bridge. There always seems to be a big queue of cars waiting to cross, first to get through the Estonian checkpoint and then again on the bridge to get through the Russian checkpoint. I’ve heard that this is in part because only a certain number of private cars are allowed to cross per hour. Despite this, it is apparently quite common for people to make the trip across the border to stock up in fuel and cigarettes, both of which are significantly cheaper on the Russian side.

Entrance to Estonian checkpoint

Queue of cars waiting to enter (at times it grew much longer than this) 

To start the day I wandered towards Narva Castle  - the fortress on the Estonian side of the border. Along the way I happened upon some of the remains of what was a much larger Sewdish fortification, dating from the 17^th century. Some of the walls of this fortress are still in place along the foreshore of the river and are in the process of being renovated/restored. I also passed an innocent looking building on the foreshore which was used for soviet POW’s and later civilians. Again, thousands perished here. It is now used as a sailing venue.

Remains of Swedish fortification

An innocent-enough looking building

Foreshore  with border crossing and Narva Castle in background

Wall of Narva Castle

Around town (that's actually Ivangorod Castle in the background)

As is the general theme of Estonian history, that of the Narva Castle is long and complicated. It has been destroyed and rebuilt throughout the centuries, depending on who controlled the area. This commenced with the Danes in the 13^th century, then the Livonians from the 14^th and the Russians from the 19^th. The prominent tower, Tall/Pikk Herman, was constructed during the 18^th century, largely destroyed during WW2 and reconstructed from the 1950’s. Renovations to the castle as a whole were completed in 2005. It is now a museum and one of the prime tourist attractions. It was indeed an interesting museum to visit. The highlight was the views afforded from the top of Pikk Herman. The ticket price included a souvenir from the ‘north yard’ of the castle. This yard has been done up to look as it would have done back in the day. A number of handicrafts are offered, along with demonstrations of blacksmiths and other period handicrafts. I hammered my own coin and picked up a complimentary souvenir.

Narva Castle/museum entrance

Ascending Pikk Herman

View from Pikk Herman to north yard, bridge and Russia. Note cars queuing on bridge 

View to opposite bank

The view back over Narva

Pikk Herman viewed from north yard

After leaving I wandered over to the tourist information centre. Despite being staffed by a rather unenthusiastic information officer, I did pick up some very good brochures about Narva and Ida-Virumaa. I then went for a wander around the town, visiting the Orthodox cathedral, which was open and full of little old ladies going about their business, making sure everything was spick and span. After a walk along the river, which was packed with bathers and fisher people on this warm sunny day, I adjourned to a café perched upon one of the castle wall for a coffee and to do some writing. After spending a few hours there, I wandered home via the Lutheran cathedral, which is the most imposing on Narva’s skyline. This cathedral was also largely destroyed in WW2. From he 1960’s it was used as a storehouse and it was not until the 1990’s that it was restored and returned to the congregation. Unfortunately it was not open when I visited.

Orthodox Cathedral (tricky to get a nice picture from the outside)

The Narva hydro plant on the Russian side of the border

Narva Castle to the left, Ivangorod Castle to the right

Coffee on castle wall

Alexander's Cathedral - it is quite easy to tell that the bellower has been reconstructed

I had dinner at the hostel. Pirukas and frozen vegetables. This is about the extent of what is possible in the kitchen, which is really more of a token kitchen, with only a few pots (well, a pot), pans and utensils.